At Home with Furring,
Shims and Plumb
Reproduced by kind permission of www.homeandgardenmakeover.com
In the past, many homes were built with
unfinished basements and the homeowner used them for storage, utility rooms
or game rooms with large amounts of space being unused or just
"there". You may have bought one yourself and now, with the high
price of new housing, you are looking to expand your current house to meet
your family's needs. That unused basement seems be the answer!
Want to do it yourself? You should begin by
finishing the basement walls. Easy, right? Just slap up some drywall
and tape! Wrong! Here's how to do it correctly:
1. Look at
is the amount of moisture in your basement. Are the walls moist? Is there
standing water in any part of the area? You should call a professional for
ideas on how to get rid of water seepage. It will be money well spent and
will prevent many problems later.
the amount of drywall and furring strips (to attach the drywall to the
concrete face) you will need. For every 4 feet of wall, you will need
one sheet of dry wall (we are assuming that your ceiling is less than 8
feet!) and 4 furring strips.
the furring strips to the wall leaving a space of approximately one-half
inch from the bottom of the strip to the floor in case water seeps in. Make
sure the strips are plumb (use your "handy-dandy" level) and drill
holes about 16 inches apart into the wall (use a masonry bit). Drive in
hardened concrete screws with your even-handier dandy drill.
4. Shim the
furring strips to create a flat plane for the dry wall. Start with the strip
nearest the corner and use a long level to see if it's plumb. Use a shim, if
needed, to bring it level. Repeat the process to make certain all the strips
are plumb with the first.
insulation and a vapor barrier. Placing insulation panels between the strips
increases the R-Value of the basement. The R-value measures the basements
resistance to heat loss. All you have to do is cut the panel to size and
press it between the strips. A plastic vapor barrier will help minimize
moisture penetration. Staple the barrier to the strips using staples.
6. Cut the
drywall. Drywall should also be placed one-half inch in off the floor in
case the floor gets wet. Use a straightedge or a T-square to mark the cut
line on the drywall face. Drywall is easy to cut using a utility knife. Just
cut through the paper facing. The piece to be cut off is then snapped toward
the back of the panel. You can then cut through the paper backing with the
utility knife. Easy, huh?
the drywall to the furring strips. The best way to measure where you
need to screw is to snap a chalk line along the drywall at each furring
strip (do you remember how far apart you place them?) Use 1 and one-fourth
inch drywall screws and be careful not to screw so deep that you break the
surface of the face paper.
Finishing the wall. Ok, now for a bit of artistry! You can make the wall
look really good - or really, really bad! Apply a layer of drywall compound
between the cracks between the dry wall sheets. The layer should be about 3
inches wide. Then apply a strip of drywall tape and apply another thin layer
of compound over the tape. Then fill in all the screw holes with compound.
Try to make the surface and smooth as possible (easier said than done!).
After the first layer dries (usually 24-36 hours), scrape off any uneven
ridges or lumps and apply a thin layer of compound with a wide knife (6-10
inches works well). Sand smooth and you are ready paint!
You are now ready for a wide
range of decorating options: bedroom, play room, den, family room, game
room, bonus room, office, gym, or workshop. The choice is yours! The
style is yours! Have fun!
Pamela Cole Harris is an editor
and writer with 35 years experience. Her interest in do-it-yourself projects
dates from the time she helped her father, who was a builder, work on new
homes after school. Her website, http://www.homeandgardenmakeover
is full of remodeling, home improvement and decorating ideas.